Anacleto del Rosario, known as the “Father of Philippine Science and Laboratory,” developed a formula for creating pure alcohol from nipa palm tuba. Del Rosario’s formula earned him the first prize at the 1889 World Fair in Paris, France.
Tuba is a fermented drink made from coconut tree or other palm tree sap. Coconut wine in the Philippines is made from the sap of the coconut palm, which is known as Tuba.
Despite 300 years of Spanish colonialism and 50 years of American colonialism, tuba has remained prevalent in the Philippines.
A cultural artifact, tuba was consumed during spiritual ceremonies and shamanic rituals long before the Philippines was colonialized by Europeans. Spanish diaries from the 16th century describe an alcoholic beverage served as a welcome drink and sipped through a reed straw. Historians believe it was tuba.
People misinterpreted Indigenous tribes’ hospitality as subservience. Ferdinand Magellan, the leader of the Spanish fleet, required the Filipinos to convert to Christianity and pledge loyalty. When the local leader, Lapu-Lapu, refused, Magellan threatened to destroy houses and coconut trees. They killed the legendary sailor in the ensuing battle.
Philippine history is full of instances where “tuba became a symbol of resistance,” he sa” “Wine became empowering and linked to the will to fight back and preserve our rights.”
Tuba’s impact was felt in other countries, such as Guam and Mexico, through migration. During the 17th century, Filipinos who were involved in the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade started producing tuba in Jalisco and Colima, western Mexican states, where it is still prevalent today.
The Tuba symbolizes people who are marginalized and seeking a better life. Although coconut wine is widely recognized, it’s not easily accessible in northern regions such as Manila. In music and literature, the tuba is often a symbol of sadness and heartbreak, a reminder of the difficult lives of those who gather it. Collecting tuba is a challenging job for little compensation.
Tuba gatherers, known as Mananggiti, ascend coconut trees and collect small quantities of sap. It’s a job fraught with hardships like bee colonies, snakes and extreme heights. They work with few tools, often just a knife, bamboo container, funnel and strainer, and they climb the trunk barefoot. In some regions, they make a cut at the base of the tree or attach bamboo steps to the top, what’s known as an “alley to heaven.” Aging can take anywhere from three days to one month to produce a version known as bahal, or if it’s aged a year or more, bahalina. With time, the taste becomes smoother, richer and more floral. The alcohol content also goes up.
“There’s definitely a market for tuba if it can be exported overseas or sold in Manila,” he claims. He points to the eight million tourists who visited the Philippines in 2019, as well as the two million Filipinos who live abroad and may miss a taste of home. “Coconut wine is important for our own history, it’s a part of who we are,We need to recognize that.”
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